沈从文《我上许多课仍然不放下那一本大书》中英双语 -《湘西散记：汉英对照》

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我上许多课仍然不放下那一本大书

我改进了新式小学后，学校不背诵经书，不随便打人，同时也不必成天坐在桌边，每天不只可以在小院子中玩，互相扭打，先生见及，也不加以约束，七天照例又还有一天放假，因此我不必再逃学了。可是在那学校照例也就什么都不曾学到。每天上课时照例上上，下课时就遵照大的学生指挥，找寻大小相等的人，到操练坪中去打架。一出门就是城墙，我们便想法爬上城去，看城外对河的景致。上学散学时，便如同往常一样，常常绕了多远的路，去城外边街上看看那些木工手艺人新雕的佛像贴了多少金。看看那些铸钢犁的人，一共出了多少新货。或者什么人家孵了小鸡，也常常不管远近必跑去看看。一到星期日，我在家中写了十六个大字后，就一溜出门，一直到晚方回家中。

半年后，家中母亲相信了一个亲戚的建议，以为应从城内第二初级小学换到城外第一小学，这件事实行后更使我方便快乐。新学校临近高山，校屋前后各处是大树，同学又多，当然十分有趣。到这学校我仍然什么也不学得，字也没认识多少，可是我倒学会了爬树。几个人一下课就各自拣选一株合抱大梧桐树，看谁先爬到顶。我从这方面便认识约三十种树木的名称。因为爬树有时跌下扭伤了脚，或拉破了手，就跟同学去采药，又认识了十来种草药。我开始学会了钓鱼，总是上半天学钓半天鱼。我学会了采笋子，采蕨菜。后山上到春天各处是兰花，各处是可以充饥解渴的刺莓，在竹篁里且有无数雀鸟，我便跟他们认识了许多雀鸟，且认识许多果树。去后山约一里左右，又有一个制瓷器的大窑，我们便常常到那里去看人制造一切瓷器，看一块白泥在各样手续下成为一个饭碗，或一件别种用具的情形。

学校环境使我们在校外所学的实在比校内课堂上多十倍。但在学校也学会了一件事，便是各人用刀在座位板下镌雕自己的名字。又因为学校有做手工的白泥，我们就用白泥摹塑教员的肖像，且各为取一怪名：“绵羊”“耗子”“老土地菩萨”，还有更古怪的称呼。总之随心所欲。在这些事情上我的成绩照例比学校功课好一点儿，但自然不能得到任何奖励。

照情形看来，我已不必逃学，但学校既不严格，四个教员恰恰又有我两个表哥在内，想要到什么地方去时，我便请假。看戏请假，钓鱼请假，甚至于几个人到三里外田坪中去看人割禾，也向老师请假。

那时我家中每年还可收取租谷三百石左右。到秋收时，我便同叔父或其他年长亲戚，往二十里外的乡下去，督促佃户和临时雇来的工人割禾。等到田中成熟禾穗已空，新谷装满白木浅缘方桶时，便把新谷倾倒到大晒谷簟上来，与佃户平分，其一半应归佃户所有的，由他们去处置，我们把我家应得那一半，雇人押运回家。在那里最有趣处是可以辨别各种禾苗，认识各种害虫，学习捕捉蚱蜢分别蚱蜢。同时学用鸡笼去罩捕水田中肥大的鲤鱼鲫鱼，把鱼捉来即用黄泥包好塞到热灰里去煨熟分吃。又向佃户家讨小小斗鸡，且认识种类，准备带回家来抱到街上去寻找别人公雏作战。又从农家小孩学习抽稻草芯织小篓小篮，剥桐木皮作卷筒哨子，用小竹子作唢呐。有时捉得一个刺猬，有时打死一条大蛇，有时还可跟叔父让佃户带到山中去，把雉媒抛出去，吹唿哨招引野雉，鸟枪里装上一把黑色土药和散碎铁砂，猎取这华丽骄傲的禽鸟。

为了打猎，秋末冬初我们还常常去佃户家。我最欢喜的是猎取野猪同黄麂，看他们下围，跟着他们乱跑。有一次还被他们捆缚在一株大树高枝上，看他们把受惊的黄麂从树下追赶过去。我又看过猎狐，眼看着一对狡猾野兽在一株大树根下转，到后来这东西便变成了我叔父的马褂。

学校既然不必按时上课，其余的时间我们还得想出几件事情来消磨，到下午三点才能散学。几个人爬上城去，坐在大铜炮上看城外风光，一面拾些石头奋力向河中掷去，这是一个办法。另外就是到操场一角沙地上去拿顶翻筋斗，每个人轮流来作这件事，不溜刷的便仿照技术班办法，在那人腰身上缚一条带子，两个人各拉一端，翻筋斗时用力一抬，日子一多，便无人不会翻筋斗了。

因为学校有几个乡下来的同学，身体壮大异常，便有人想出好主意，提议要这些乡下孩子装成马匹，让较小的同学跨到马背上去，同另一匹马上另一员勇将来作战，在上面扭成一团，直到跌下地后为止。这些作马匹的同学，总照例非常忠厚可靠，在任何情形下皆不卸责。作战总有受伤的，不拘谁人头面有时流血了，就抓一把黄土，将伤口敷上，全不在乎似的。我常常设计把这些人马调度得十分如法，他们服从我的编排，比一匹真马还驯服规矩。

放学时天气若还早一些，几个人不是上城去坐坐，就常常沿了城墙走去。有时节出城去看看，有谁的柴船无人照料，看明白了这只船的的确确无人时，几人就匆忙跳上了船，很快的向河中心划去。等一会儿那船主人来时，若在岸上和和气气的说：

“兄弟，兄弟，快把船划回来。我得回家！”

遇到这种和平人时，我们也总得十分和气把船划回来，各自跳上了岸，让人家上船回家。若那人性格暴躁点儿，一见自己小船给一群胡闹的小将送到河中打着圈儿转，心中十分愤怒，大声的喊骂，说出许多恐吓无理的野话，那我们便一面回骂着，一面快快的把船向下游流去，尽他叫骂也不管它。到下游时几个人上了岸，就让这船搁在河滩上不再理会了。有时刚上船坐定，即刻便被船主人赶来，那就得担当一分惊险了。船主照例知道我们受不了什么簸荡，抢上船头，把身体故意向左右连续倾侧不已，因此小船就在水面胡乱颠簸，一个无经验的孩子担心会掉到水中去，必惊骇得大哭不已。但有了经验的人呢，你估计一下，先看看是不是逃得上岸，若已无可逃避，那就好好的坐在船中，尽那乡下人的磨练，拼一身衣服给水湿透，你不慌不忙，只稳稳的坐在船中，不必作声告饶，也不必恶声相骂，过一会儿那乡下人看看你胆量不小，知道用这方法吓不了你，他就会让你明白他的行为不过是一种不带恶意的玩笑，这玩笑到时应当结束了，必把手叉上腰边，向你微笑，抱歉似的微笑。

“少爷，够了，请你上岸！”

于是几个人便上岸了。有时不凑巧，我们也会为人用小桨竹篙一路追赶着打，还一路骂。只要逃走远一点点，用什么话骂来，我们照例也就用什么话骂回去，追来时我们又很快的跑去。

那河里有鳜鱼，有鲫鱼，有小鲇鱼，钓鱼的人多向上游一点儿走去。隔河是一片苗人的菜园，不涨水，从跳石上过河，到菜园里去看花、买菜心吃的次数也很多。河滩上各处晒满了白布同青菜，每天还有许多妇人背了竹笼来洗衣，用木棒杵在流水中捶打，訇訇的从北城墙脚下应出回声。

天热时，到下午四点以后，满河中都是赤光光的身体。有些军人好事爱玩，还把小孩子，战马，看家的狗，同一群鸭雏，全部都带到河中来。有些人父子数人同来，大家皆在激流清水中游泳。不会游泳的便把裤子泡湿，扎紧了裤管，向水中急急的一兜，捕捉了满满的一裤空气，再用带子捆好，便成了极合用的“水马”。有了这东西，即或全不会漂浮的人，也能很勇敢的向水深处泅去。到这种人多的地方，照例不会被水淹死的，一出了什么事，大家皆很勇敢的救人。

我们洗澡可常常到上游一点儿去，那里人既很少，水又极深，对我们才算合适。这件事自然得瞒着家中人。家中照例总为我担忧，唯恐一不小心就会为水淹死。每天下午既无法禁止我出去玩，又知道下午我不会到米厂上去同人赌骰子，那位对于拘管我侦察我十分负责的大哥，照例一到饭后我出门不久，他也总得到城外河边一趟。人多时不能从人丛中发现我，就沿河去注意我的衣服，在每一堆衣服上来一分注意。一见到我的衣服，一句话不说，就拿起来走去，远远的坐到大路上，等候我要穿衣时来同他会面。衣裤既然在他手上，我不能不见他了，到后来只好走上岸，从他手上把衣服取到手，两人沉沉默默的回家。回去不必说什么，只准备一顿打。可是经过两次教训后，我即或仍然在河中洗澡，也就不至于再被家中人发现了。我可以搬些石头把衣服压着，只要一看到他从城门洞边大路走来时，必有人告给我，我就快快的泅到河中去，向天仰卧，把全身泡在水中，只露出一张脸一个鼻孔来，尽岸上那一个搜索也不会得到什么结果。有些人常常同我在一处，哥哥认得他们，看到了他们时，就唤他们：

“熊澧南，印鉴远，你见我兄弟老二吗？”

那些同学便故意大声答着：

“我们不知道，你不看看衣服吗？”

“你们不正是成天在一堆胡闹吗？”

“是呀，可是现在谁知道他在哪一片天底下？”

“他不在河里吗？”

“你不看看衣服吗？不数数我们的人数吗？”

这好人便各处望望，果然不见到我的衣裤，相信我那朋友的答复不是谎话，于是站在河边欣赏了一阵河中景致，又弯下腰拾起两个放光的贝壳，用他那双常若含泪发愁的艺术家眼睛赏鉴了一下，或坐下来取出速写簿，随意画两张河景的素描，口上嘘嘘打着唿哨，又向原来那条路上走去了。等他走去以后，我们便来模仿我这个可怜的哥哥，互相反复着前后那种答问。“熊澧南，印鉴远，看见我兄弟吗？”“不知道，不知道，你自己不看看这里一共有多少衣服吗？”“你们成天在一堆！”“是呀！成天在一堆，可是谁知道他现在到哪儿去了呢？”于是互相浇起水来，直到另一个逃走方能完事。

有时这好人明知道我在河中，当时虽无法擒捉，回头却常常隐藏在城门边，坐在卖荞粑的苗妇人小茅棚里，很有耐心的等待着。等到我十分高兴的从大路上同几个朋友走近身时，他便风快的同一只公猫一样，从那小棚中跃出，一把攫住了我衣领。于是同行的朋友就大嚷大笑，伴送我到家门口，才自行散去。不过这种事也只有三两次，从经验上既知道这一着棋时，我进城时便常常故意慢一阵，有时且绕了极远的东门回去。

我人既长大了些，权利自然也多些了，在生活方面我的权利便是，即或家中明知我下河洗了澡，只要不是当面被捉，家中可不能用爬搔皮肤方法决定我应否受罚了。同时我的游泳自然也进步多了，我记得我能在河中来去泅过三次，至于那个名叫熊澧南的，却大约能泅过五次。

下河的事若在平常日子，多半是晚饭以后才去。如遇星期日，则常常几人先一天就邀好，过河上游一点儿棺材潭的地方去，泡一个整天，泅一阵水又摸一会儿鱼，把鱼从水中石底捉得，就用枯枝在河滩上烧来当点心。有时那一天正当附近十里二十里苗乡场集，就空了两只手跑到那地方去玩一个半天。到了场上后，过卖牛处看看他们讨论价钱盟神发誓的样子，又过卖猪处看看那些大猪小猪，查看它，把后脚提起时必锐声呼喊[5]。又到赌场上去看那些乡下人一只手抖抖的下注，替别人担一阵心。又到卖山货处去，用手摸摸那些豹子老虎的皮毛，且听听他们谈到猎取这野物的种种经验。又到卖鸡处去，欣赏欣赏那些大鸡小鸡，我们皆知道什么鸡战斗时厉害，什么鸡生蛋极多。我们且各自把那些斗鸡毛色记下来，因为这些鸡照例当天全将为城中来的兵士和商人买去，五天以后就会在城中斗鸡场出现。我们间或还可在敞坪中看苗人决斗，用扁担或双刀互相拼命。小河边到了场期，照例来了无数小船和竹筏，竹筏上且常常有长眉秀目脸儿极白奶头高肿的青年苗族女人，用绣花大衣袖掩着口笑，使人看来十分舒服。我们来回走二三十里路，各个人两只手既是空空的，因此在场上什么也不能吃。间或谁一个人身上有一两枚铜元，就到卖狗肉摊边去割一块狗肉，蘸些盐水，平均分来吃吃。或者无意中谁一个在人丛中碰着了一位亲长，被问道：“吃过点心吗？”大家正饿着，互相望了会儿，羞羞怯怯的一笑。那人知道情形了，便说：“这成吗？不喝一杯还算赶场吗？”到后来自然就被拉到狗肉摊边去，切一斤两斤肥狗肉，分割成几大块，各人来那么一块，蘸了盐水往嘴上送。

机会不巧不曾碰到这么一个慷慨的亲戚，我们也依然不会瘪着肚皮回家。沿路有无数人家的桃树李树，果实把树枝全压得弯弯的，等待我们去为它们减除一分担负！还有多少黄泥田里，红萝卜大得如小猪头，没有我们去吃它，赞美它，便始终委屈在那深土里！除此以外，路塍上无处不是莓类同野生樱桃，大道旁无处不是甜滋滋的地枇杷，无处不可得到充饥果腹的东西。口渴时无处不可以随意低下头去喝水。至于茶油树上长的茶莓，则长年四季都可以随意采吃，不犯任何忌讳。即或任何东西没得吃，我们还是十分高兴。就为的是乡场中那一派空气，一阵声音，一分颜色，以及在每一处每一项生意人身上发出的那一股臭味，就够使我们觉得满意！我们用各样官能吃了那么多东西，即使不再用口来吃喝，也很够了。

到场上去我们还可以看各样水碾水碓，并各种形式的水车。我们必得经过好几个榨油坊，远远的就可以听到油坊中打油人唱歌的声音。一过油坊时便跑进去，看看那些堆积如山的桐子，经过些什么手续才能出油。我们只要稍稍绕一点儿路，还可以从一个造纸工作场过身，在那里可以看他们利用水力捣碎稻草同竹篠，用细篾帘子勺取纸浆作纸。我们又必须从一些造船的河滩上过身，有万千机会看到那些造船工匠在太阳下安置一只小船的龙骨，或把粗麻头同桐油石灰嵌进缝罅里修补旧船。

总而言之，这样玩一次，就只一次，也似乎比读半年书还有益处。若把一本好书同这种好地方尽我拣选一种，直到如今我还觉得不必看这本弄虚作伪千篇一律用文字写成的小书，却应当去读那本色香俱备内容充实用人事写成的大书。

我不明白我为什么就学会了赌骰子。大约还是因为每早上买菜，总可剩下三五个小钱，让我有机会傍近用骰子赌输赢的糕类摊子。起始当三五个人蹲到那些戏楼下，把三粒骰子或四粒骰子或六粒骰子抓到手中奋力向大土碗掷去，跟着它的变化喊出种种专有名词时，我真忘了自己也忘了一切。那富于变化的六骰子赌，七十二种“快”“臭”，一眼间我都能很得体的喊出它的得失。谁也不能在我面前占便宜，谁也骗不了我。自从精明这一项玩意儿以后，我家里这一早上若派我出去买菜，我就把买菜的钱去作注，同一群小无赖在一个有天棚的米厂上玩骰子，赢了钱自然全部买东西吃，若不凑巧全输掉时，就跑回来悄悄的进门找寻外祖母，从她手中把买菜的钱得到。

但这是件相当冒险的事，家中知道后可得痛打一顿，因此赌虽然赌，经常总只下一个铜子的注，赢了拿钱走去，输了也不再来，把菜少买一些，总可敷衍下去。

由于赌术精明，我不大担心输赢。我倒最希望玩个半天结果无输无赢。我所担心的只是正玩得十分高兴，忽然后领一下子为一只强硬有力的瘦手攫定，一个哑哑的声音在我耳边响着：

“这一下捉到你了！这一下捉到你了！”

先是一惊。想挣扎可不成。既然捉定了，不必回头，我就明白我被谁捉到，且不必猜想，我就知道我回家去应受些什么款待。于是提了菜篮让这个仿佛生下来给我作对的人把我揪回去。这样过街可真无脸面，因此不是请求他放和平点儿抓着我一只手，总是在趁他不注意的情形下，忽然挣脱，先行跑回家去，准备他回来时受罚。

每次在这件事上我受的处罚都似乎略略过分了些，总是用一条绣花的白绸腰带缚定两手，系在空谷仓里，用鞭子打几十下，上半天不许吃饭，或是整天不许吃饭。亲戚中看到觉得十分可怜，多以为哥哥不应当这样虐待弟弟。但这样不顾脸面的去同一些乞丐赌博，给了家中多少气怄，我是不理解的。

我从那方面学会了不少下流野话和赌博术语，在亲戚中身份似乎也就低了些。只是当十五年后，我能够用我各方面的经验写点儿故事时，这些粗话野话，却给了我许多帮助，增加了故事中人物的色彩和生命。

革命后，本地设了女校，我两个姐姐一同被送过女校读书。我那时也欢喜到女校去玩，就因为那地方有些新奇的东西。学校外边一点儿，有个做小鞭炮的作坊，从起始用一根细钢条，卷上了纸，送到木机上一搓，吱的一声就成了空心的小管子，再如何经过些什么手续，便成了燃放时啪的一声的小炮仗，被我看得十分熟习。我借故去瞧姐姐时，总在那里看他们工作一会会。我还可看他们烘焙火药，碓舂木炭，筛硫磺，配合火药的原料，因此明白制烟火用的药同制炮仗用的药，硫磺的分配分量如何不同。这些知识远比学校读的课本有用。

一到女校时，我必跑到长廊下去，欣赏那些平时不易见到的织布机器。那些大小不同钢齿轮互相衔接，一动它时全部都转动起来，且发出一种异样陌生的声音，听来我总十分欢喜。我平时是个怕鬼的人，但为了欣赏这些机器，黄昏中我还敢在那儿逗留，直到她们大声呼喊各处找寻时，我才从廊下跑出。

当我转入高小那年，正是民国五年，我们那地方为了上年受蔡锷讨袁战事的刺激，感觉军队非改革不能自存，因此本地镇守署方面，设了一个军官团。前为道尹后改屯务处方面，也设了一个将弁学校。另外还有一个教练兵士的学兵营，一个教导队。小小的城里多了四个军事学校，一切都用较新方式训练，地方因此气象一新。由于常常可以见到这类青年学生结队成排在街上走过，本地的小孩以及一些小商人，都觉得学军事较有意思。有人与军官团一个教官作邻居的，要他在饭后课余教教小孩子，先在大街上练操，到后却借了附近由皇殿改成的军官团操场使用，不上半月，便招集了一百人左右。

有同学在里面受过训练来的，精神比起别人来特别强悍，我们觉得奇怪。这同学就告我们一切，且问我愿不愿意去。并告我到里面后，每两月可以考选一次，配吃一份口粮，作守兵的，就可以补上名额当兵。在我生长的那个地方，当兵不是耻辱。多久以来，文人只出了个翰林即熊希龄，两个进士，四个拔贡。至于武人，随同曾国荃打入南京城的就出了四名提督军门，后来从日本士官学校出来的朱湘溪，还作蔡锷的参谋长，出身保定军官团的，且有一大堆，在湘西十三县似占第一位。本地的光荣原本是从过去无数男子的勇敢流血博来的。谁都希望当兵，因为这是年轻人一条出路，也正是年轻人唯一的出路。同学说及进“技术班”时，我就答应试来问问我的母亲，看看母亲的意见，这将军的后人，是不是仍然得从步卒出身。

那时节我哥哥已过热河找寻父亲去了，我因不受拘束，生活已日益放肆，母亲正想不出处置我的好方法，因此一来，将军后人就决定去作兵役的候补者了。

While Continuing My Schooling I Stick to That Big Book

In the new-style primary school to which I switched we no longer recited the classics or received beatings at random, neither did we have to sit all day at our desks. We could play in the small yard every day, and when teachers saw us scrapping they did not stop us, while every week we still had one free day, so there was no more need for me to play truant. However, I learned nothing in that school either. I went to class every day, and after our lessons the older boys made us find other boys of about our size to fight on the parade-ground. The city wall was just outside our school,and we contrived to climb to the top of the city gate to look at the view on the other side of the river. On my way to and from school I continued to make long detours through the streets outside town to see how the gilding of the newly carved statues of Buddha was progressing, or how many new ploughshares had been cast. If any household had a new brood of chicks, no matter how far away it was we ran over to look. On Sunday, once I had written sixteen big characters, I would streak out of our gate, not coming home till the evening.

Half a year later a relative persuaded Mother that I should leave the No. 2 Primary School in town to attend the No. 1 Primary School outside town. This gave me more scope for enjoyment. My new school was at the foot of a hill, with big trees in front and behind, and its larger atttendance was an added attraction. In this school I learned nothing either, not even many new characters, but I did learn to climb trees. Directly after class a few of us would each choose a parasol tree, so big you could barely clasp your arms around it, then race each other to the top.This was how I learned the names of about thirty different trees.As we sometimes fell while climbing, twisting an ankle or cutting open a hand, I went with my classmates to pick medicinal herbs and learned about a dozen different herbal medicines. I began to learn to fish, going to fish every morning. I learned to gather bamboo shoots and bracken. In spring the hill at the back was a mass of orchids and thirst-quenching berries; its bamboo groves were the home of countless birds, and my friends taught me to identify many different birds and fruit trees. About one li away on that hill was a big porcelain kiln, where we often went to watch the potters at work and the various processes involved in transforming a lump of kaolin into a rice-bowl or other types of crockery.

The school’s environment taught us ten times as much as our classroom. One thing, though, we did learn at school—how to carve our names on the bottom of our benches. And as kaolin was supplied for our handicrafts class we modelled busts of our teachers, giving each a title such as “The Sheep”, “The Rat”, “The Tutelary God” or something even more bizarre. In short, we did as we pleased. My achievements in these respects were, as usual,better than my classwork, for which naturally I never received any prizes.

In those circumstances I did not need to play truant. The school was not strict and it so happened that two of its four teachers were cousins of mine, whom I asked for leave whenever I wanted it. I got leave to go to the theatre, to go fishing, even to go three li away with a few friends to watch the harvesting or to catch locusts.

In those days we still collected about three hundred bushels of grain a year from our family fields, and in autumn I would go with an uncle or older relative to a village twenty li away to supervise our tenants and hired hands. After the fields were bare of ripe ears of grain these were put in square unvarnished wooden tubs, then emptied on to big mats to be sunned. This crop was divided up between the tenants and ourselves, half going to the tenants to do as they pleased with while we hired porters to carry our half home. What fascinated me most there was learning to distinguish between different crops, different insect pests and the different kinds of locust we caught. At the same time I learned to use a hencoop to catch plump carp and bream in the paddy fields.We coated our catches with mud, then thrust them into hot ashes to cook, and shared them out between us. I also asked our tenants for fighting cockerels and learned to recognize the different kinds,so as to take them back to town to pit against other people’s.The village boys also taught me how to weave little baskets of paddy straw, strip the bark of parasol trees to roll into whistles,and make little bamboo flutes. Sometimes we caught a hedgehog,killed a big snake, or asked my uncle to get one of our tenants to take us up the mountains to loose a decoy, then blew a whistle to attract wild pheasants. We loaded our fowling-pieces with pellets and locally-made gunpowder to catch those proud, splendid creatures.

We also often went to the tenants’ homes in late autumn or early winter to hunt. What I liked best was hunting wild boars and fallow deer, watching them fall into a pit or racing after them.Once I was tied to a branch high up a tree, and watched them chase a frightened deer past below. I also watched foxhunts, and saw two crafty foxes race round and round the root of a big tree—they ended up as a mandarin jacket for my uncle.

Since there was no need for regular school attendance, we had to think up other pastimes, as classes ended at three in the afternoon. One was for a few of us to climb up the city gate and sit on a big bronze cannon looking at the countryside, at the same time picking up stones to hurl into the river. Another was to go to the sand-pit in one corner of the parade-ground to turn somersaults. We took turns doing this, and anyone who muffed it was treated like a trainee. A rope tied round his waist he was held by two other boys, who tugged him up when he turned a somersault. So before long we all were adept at this.

As a few of our classmates were strong hefty lads from the country, someone had the bright idea of using them as horses for smaller boys. Then the riders of two of these horses had a fight, grappling together till one or both fell to the ground. The lads serving as horses were always absolutely reliable and never shirked their responsibilities. There were invariably casualties,but if anyone cut his head so that it bled, the wound would be daubed with mud, and that was that. I thought up various ways to train these human horses, and they obeyed me better than real horses.

If it was still early when school was let out, a few of us climbed up to sit on top of the city gate, or strolled along skirting the city wall. Sometimes we went out of town, and if there was an empty boat and we could see for sure there was no one on it, we would jump aboard and row quickly out to midstream. Presently the owner would appear on the bank. He might call out politely:

“Hey, brothers! Please bring that boat back. I have to go home!”

If he took this peaceable line we always rowed back, not to be outdone in politeness, and jumped ashore to let him row his boat home. If he was overbearing and flew into a rage at the sight of his boat rowed round and round in midstream by a band of urchins, he might loose a flood of bad language and threats at the top of his voice; then we would curse back and paddle quickly downstream, paying no attention to him; and downstream we would jump ashore, leaving his boat stranded there. Sometimes the owner would catch us when we had just boarded his boat,and we had to know how to cope with him. Realizing that we couldn’t abscond, he would leap into the prow and lurch from side to side, setting the little craft rocking violently. A greenhorn afraid of falling overboard would howl. An old hand at this game would look to see if the bank was within jumping distance, and if it was not would sit down quietly, keeping his head, while the villager plagued him by soaking his clothes.All you needed to do was sit still, not begging for mercy or cursing, till he saw that you had guts and couldn’t be scared.Then he would indicate that this was simply a joke, and enough was enough. Hands on his hips, he would smile at you rather apologetically.

“All right, young gentlemen. Please go ashore!”

Then we went ashore. If luck was against us, a boatman might chase us with his bamboo pole, cursing. Once out of his reach we cursed back, using the same invectives as we fled.

In that river were mandarin fish, bream and catfish. People usually went some way upstream to fish. On the opposite shore was a Miao vegetable plot. When the river was low you could cross the stepping-stones to look at the flowers there or buy the heart of a cabbage to eat. The banks were covered with white cloth and green vegetables. Every day women took bamboo crates of laundry down to wash there, pounding it with thick batons on the stones in the river so that the thuds reechoed from the foot of the north wall.

In hot weather, after four in the afternoon the river swarmed with swimmers, stark naked. Some soldiers who liked to fool about took their children, horses, watch-dogs and ducks into the river with them. Fathers often took their sons to swim in the swift current. Those unable to swim soaked their trousers, tied up the cuffs, then swung them hard till they were full of air and fastened the waist to make a very handy “water horse”. With one of these even those unable to float could boldly strike out for deep water.In the places where such people congregated there was no danger of drowning, because in case of some mishap everyone else went fearlessly to their rescue.

We usually went to swim upstream, where there were fewer people and the water was deeper, because that suited us better. But of course this had to be kept secret at home. My family always worried about me, afraid that being reckless I might drown. They could not stop me going out to play in the afternoon, and knew that I would not go to the rice depot to gamble; so after the meal that elder brother of mine who felt responsible for me would go out shortly after I had left to see if I had gone out of town to the river. When he failed to spot me in the crowd of swimmers, he would look at the heaps of clothes. If he discovered mine, he would carry them off without a word and sit in the road some distance away, waiting for me to fetch them. Since he had my vest and pants, a confrontation could not be avoided and finally I had to go ashore to retrieve them. Then, in silence, we both went home, where there was nothing I could say. I just braced myself for a thrashing. After two such lessons, however, when I went swimming again I learned how to escape detection. I hid my clothes under some stones, and when my friends saw my brother coming through the city gate they would alert me. Then I swam quickly to midstream to float on my back, with only my nose out of water. This made the searcher on the shore draw a blank.My brother knew which boys were my constant companions. He would call to them:

“Xiong Linan! Yin Jianyuan! Have you seen my second brother?”

My classmates would shout back:

“No. Why not look for his clothes?”

“Don’t you always fool about together?”

“Yes, but we’ve no idea where he is now.”

“Isn’t he in the river?”

“Why not look for his clothes, then count our heads?”

When my good brother had searched high and low without finding my clothes, he decided that my friends were telling the truth. After standing on the bank to enjoy the view he might stoop to pick up two gleaming shells and feast his artist’s eyes on them,eyes which often appeared bright with anxious tears; or he might sit down to make two sketches of the river, whistling to himself before retracing his steps. When he had gone we would mimic my poor brother, repeating the earlier exchange. “Xiong Linan!Yin Jianyuan! Seen my brother?” “No. Why not count the clothes on the bank?” “You’re always together.” “Maybe. But we have no idea where he is.” Then we’d splash each other until someone fled.

Sometimes my worthy brother knew that I was in the river though he couldn’t catch me, and he lay in wait by the city gate,sitting patiently in the thatched stall where a Miao woman sold buckwheat cakes. When I came merrily up the road with my friends, he darted out from the stall and pounced on me like a cat catching a mouse, grabbing hold of my collar. My friends, roaring with laughter, would escort us to our gate, then go their own ways. But this happened only two or three times, because once I knew his tactics I often delayed my return or made a detour back through the much further East Gate.

Being bigger now I had more freedom of action, and although the family knew that I went swimming, if I wasn’t caught doing this they couldn’t decide by rubbing my skin whether I should be punished or not. At the same time, naturally, my swimming improved. I could swim across the river and back three times,I remember, while that boy called Xiong Linan could probably make five crossings.

Normally we didn’t swim until after the evening meal. On Sundays, a few of us usually arranged to go further upstream for a whole day’s swimming and fishing at a place called Coffin Pool.We caught fish with our hands from under the rocks in the pool,and lit a fire of dry twigs on the bank to cook them. If there was a Miao fair within a radius of ten or twenty li, we hurried there empty-handed to play about for hours. At the fair we watched the cattle-dealers haggling, watched the pigs and piglets in the pig market, watched the villagers gambling with trembling hands and shared in their suspense. We also went to stalls selling mountain products and stroked the panther and tiger skins while listening to the hunters’ tales of how they had caught these beasts. In the poultry market we admired the hens and chicks, and we all knew which were the best gamecocks, which hens were the best layers. We made mental notes of the plumage of the fighters,because before the day was out they would be sold off to soldiers and merchants from town, and would appear in five days in the cockpit there. Sometimes we saw a Miao duel with carrying-poles or knives. On market days countless small boats and rafts came upstream, and on the rafts there were often high-breasted Miao girls with long eyebrows, brilliant eyes and fair complexions,who hid their smiles behind wide embroidered sleeves—watching them made you feel good. The journey there and back was twenty to thirty li, and being empty-handed we could buy nothing to eat there. If one of us had a couple of coppers, he would buy a piece of meat from the dog-meat stall, dip it in brine and share it out equally with the rest of us. If one of us happened to meet an older relative in the crowd, and he asked, “Eaten any snacks?” being hungry we just exchanged glances and sheepish smiles. Then he would say understandingly, “That won’t do. What way is that of going to a fair?” He would drag us to the dog-meat stall, cut off a pound or two of meat and give us each a hunk which we dipped in brine then munched.

If we hadn’t the luck to meet such an open-handed relative,we still would not go home hungry. By the road grew no end of peach trees and pear trees, their boughs loaded down with fruit,waiting for us to relieve them of part of their burden. In the muddy fields were red turnips as big as a piglet’s head. It would have been too bad to leave them in the ground instead of eating and enjoying them! Besides these, the roads were flanked with berries and wild cherries, as well as luscious loquats and other wild fruit to satisfy our hunger. If we were thirsty we had only to lower our heads to drink. As for the tea-plants, they bore fruit the whole year round which anyone could pick. And even if we ate nothing we were still jubilant. The whole atmosphere of the fair, its sights and sounds, and the distinctive smells of different stall-keepers were satisfaction enough! After drinking in these things with all our senses, we did not need to eat or drink anything else.

On the way to the fair we could see all sorts of water-mills and water-wheels. We had to pass a number of oil-presses, and from a distance could hear the workers there singing. We always dashed in for a look at the huge piles of phoenix tree seeds, to see how they were made to yield their tung oil. Just going a little out of our way we could pass a papermill and watch how they used hydraulic power to pulp paddy stalks and bamboo,then ladled the pulp on to fine bamboo netting to make paper.The river flat where boats were made was also on our route,so we had endless chances to watch the keels being laid in the sunshine, or old boats repaired by caulking them with wads of hemp, tung oil and lime.

In a word, from just one jaunt like this we seemed to learn more than from half a year at school. If I were given the choice between a good book and such a good place, even today I feel it superfluous to read a specious, stereotyped little book, preferring that big book so rich in colours and scents.

How I learned to gamble with dice I am not too clear. It probably happened because when I went in the morning to buy vegetables I could always save a few cents, and that gave me the chance to go to the cake stall near which gamblers gathered. When I watched a few players squatting on the steps of the theatre vigorously chucking three, four or six dice into a bowl and yelling the special term for each permutation, I completely forgot myself and everything else. A game with six dice provided seventy-two permutations, and at one glance I could sing out the result. No one could get the better of me or cheat me. Once I had learned to gamble, if sent out to buy vegetables I used the money as my stake and diced with a bunch of young wastrels under the awning of the rice depot. I spent all my winnings on snacks. If I was unlucky enough to lose the whole sum, I ran home on the sly to get money for the shopping from Granny.

This was pretty risky, however, because if the family found out I was given a good beating; so although I went on gambling I usually staked only a single copper and left if I won, or gave up if I lost. By buying fewer vegetables I could still get by.

Once I became adept at gambling I was not much afraid of losing. I liked to play for hours ending up with my original stake.What I was afraid of was, at the height of my enjoyment, having my collar clutched from behind by a strong lean hand and my ears assailed by a gruff voice:

“Caught you red-handed this time!”

That was a shock. But it was no use struggling. I did not need to look to see who had nabbed me, but knew without guessing. I also knew the treatment awaiting me at home. So I picked up my basket and let that fellow who seemed my born adversary march me home. It was really ignominious being paraded through the street like that. So instead of begging him to let me go or simply hold one of my hands, I waited till he was off his guard, then suddenly wrenched free to race home first, ready for him to come and punish me.

My punishment on such occasions always seemed rather excessive. My hands bound with a white embroidered girdle I would be tied up in an empty storeroom, given several dozen lashes, and left for hours or a whole day without food. Relatives seeing this took pity on me and thought my brother too harsh. But the disgraceful way I gambled with beggars enraged my family—I couldn’t think why.

By gambling I picked up bad language and gamblers’ jargon which lowered me in the eyes of my relatives. Fifteen years later,when I began to draw on my earlier experience to write stories,these swear-words came in most useful, making my characters more colourful and lifelike.

After the 1911 Revolution, a girls’ school was started in Fenghuang which my two elder sisters attended. I liked to go there to play because of its novel attractions. Not far from the school was a firecracker workshop, and I familiarized myself with the whole process: paper was wound round a small rod,which was then drilled hollow and fashioned into a cracker that would go off with a bang. Each time I found some reason to visit my sisters, I always stopped there to watch. I could see them making gunpowder by pounding up charcoal and sieving saltpetre, which were then mixed together. I found out the different amounts of saltpetre needed for fireworks and firecrackers. This was more useful knowledge than anything I was ever taught in school.

Going to the girls’ school, I first ran to the verandah to admire their new loom. Its interlocking cogs of different sizes all revolved together when you worked it, producing a very strange racket which was music in my ears. Although afraid of ghosts,I wasn’t afraid to linger there in the dusk admiring this loom,not leaving the verandah till my sisters began calling me as they hunted everywhere for me.

The year that I started higher primary school was the fifth year of the Republic. Because our parts had suffered the previous year during the fighting between Cai E and Yuan Shikai, we felt that unless the troops were reformed we were done for;so the local garrison commander set up an officers’ training corps as well as a cadet school, a training centre for troops and a corps of instructors. When our little town had these four new military schools, all using relatively modern methods, the whole atmosphere of the place changed. As we often saw the cadets marching in the street, the local boys as well as some young tradesmen all thought it would be a fine thing to get military training. Some people who lived next door to one of the instructors of the officers’ training corps asked him to drill some boys in his spare time. They started off in the street, then borrowed the training corps’ drill ground which had originally been the nearby Huangdian Temple. In less than half a month about a hundred boys were recruited.

Some of my classmates drilled there and they were so much more daring than the rest of us, we thought it odd. They explained the reason and asked: Would you like to join? They told me that if I did, there was an examination every two months and those who passed could serve as garrison troops with a grain ration, then join the army to fill the enlistment quota. In those parts no stigma attached to being a soldier. For years we had been short of scholars, having produced only one hanlin academician, Xiong Xilin, two provincial scholars, and four other local scholars. But we produced plenty of military men.Four of those led by Zeng Guoquan to assault Nanjing had been made provincial governors. Later there were Zhu Xiangqi who trained in a Japanese military academy and became Cai E’s chief of staff, and many others who were trained in the Baoding Officers’ Training Corps. In this respect Fenghuang ranked first of the thirteen counties in west Hunan. And we owed this distinction to the countless men who had fearlessly shed their blood. So all boys wanted to join up and have a military career. Indeed, no other career seemed open to them.Thus when my classmates proposed that I join the training class, I agreed to ask my mother for permission and see if as the descendant of generals I could start as an infantryman.

At that time my elder brother had gone to Rehe to find our father. Freed of his restricting influence I was running so wild that it was hard to control me. As my mother did not know how to discipline me, it was decided that I should apply to join the army.

未经允许不得转载：帕布莉卡 » 沈从文《我上许多课仍然不放下那一本大书》中英双语 -《湘西散记：汉英对照》